Nicaraguan Backroads

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Nicaragua is a country of conflicts and contrasts. Skirmishes and wars going back more than a century, corruption and occasional natural disasters–two devastating earthquakes, in 1931 and 1972, and Hurricaine Mitch in 1992–have made Nicaragua the second poorest country in the Western Hemisphere, after Haiti. The shadow of the Sandinista revolution in the late 70s and the Contra war that followed still hang over the country, especially with the recent reelection of Sandinista leader Daniel Ortega (just “Daniel” to his supporters). During Ortega’s first term, after the revolution, he proved to be as corruptible as those he fought against. His … Continue reading →

A Piece of Paradise

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The last week or so in Rio Dulce I spent searching for paradise, and I found at least a piece of it. My first destination was an isolated beach on the southern shore of Lake Izabel, about 10 miles from the bridge at Rio Dulce. Twenty-some years ago an ex-pat Canadian named Denny was sailing on the lake with a friend of his and found the beach, the only decent one on the lake. I’m not sure how Denny came to buy the place and build a little resort on it, but he did, and he called it, rather unimaginatively, … Continue reading →

Among the Boat People

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We traveled from Lanquin to Rio Dulce in two legs, the first in a tourist shuttle, the kind that I often disparage. It was convenient and comfortable, and I liked it. There were only five of us in a vehicle big enough for 20 or more, so we spread out and admired the spectacular scenery from soft seats, through oversized windows. I know my budget will keep me from sliding down the slippery slope of luxury travel, but that one little stretch was nice. The next leg made up for the luxury of the first. We were deposited at a … Continue reading →

Going Green

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Due to circumstances beyond my control, as so much here is, I did not meet Anna Colleen at the bus station in Guatemala City. I arrived a good two hours later than I planned to, and when I got there she was nowhere to be found. I could only imagine what had gone through her mind as she presumably waited for me, alone in a strange city. Fortunately, there was a hotel next door to the bus station that had internet access, and, resourceful person that she is, she had the presence of mind to send me an email with … Continue reading →

The Tourist Thing

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The past week or so has been a little of this and that, with not too much worth writing about. Clark and Anna Colleen arrived safely last Friday and bussed it up to Xela first thing to meet my little family. It was a five-hour ride and I thought they would be exhausted since they had left home the evening before and flown all night. But if they were, they didn’t show it. Rolando and Winston wanted to come to the bus station with me to help with their luggage, they said. But I think the boys were just eager … Continue reading →